Not that, thissss. A skincare story inspired by this tired old Drake meme that won’t die.
Life is a choose your own adventure book. Turn to page 5 if you want to piss your skin off, or continue reading if you want to have happier, healthier skin.
To answer the question of whether we should avoid SLS or not, we have to look into what exactly it is. Sodium Lauryl Sulfate is not the “unique” name your weird cousin chose for her new daughter; it’s a ubiquitous foaming agent. Why do chemists add it to products? Because the market told them to. For the longest time we demanded super foamy face washes and shampoos that left your skin (and scalps) feeling squeaky clean. “It ain’t workin’ if I’m not squeakin'” seemed to be our common motto.
Well, guess how dumb we were? The answer is “very.” We were very dumb, y’all. SLS also has the sad side effect of stripping our skin of its much needed oils, leaving our moisture barrier open to infection for us dry skin types and making us oily peeps overstimulate sebum production in angry compensation. All in all, this is something to avoid entirely.
Look for cleansers and shampoos without SLS in the ingredients. You can’t go wrong with COSRX Low pH Good Morning Gel Cleanser or Innisfree Blueberry Rebalancing 5.5 Cleanser, both of which come with the added bonus of being at the proper pH. You get an A+ for that kind of extra credit.
I’m never one to say no to alcohol, as long as it’s in moderation. Alcohol is one of the ingredients that helps some of my fav sunscreens dry up quickly on my face so that I’m not left with a sticky feel. But just like with the alcohol you drink, all things in moderation, kids.
Avoiding an alcohol-heavy toner is just plain smart. Keep in mind there are bad alcohols and alcohols that aren’t so bad (but that’s a whole other story). So for the sake of clarity, what I’m talking about here are the bad alcohols: denatured alcohol, SD alcohol, or isopropyl alcohol.
Just like with the old face washes and shampoos of yesteryear, we wanted to hear the squeak with our toners as well as feel the burn. Alcohol gave the impression of super cleansing as its cooling effects were marketed as disinfecting (which I guess it is?). But at what cost?
Once again, your moisture barrier pays the ultimate price here. We wanted the toner to “get rid” of oil and dirt, so we blasted our faces with harshness and thumbed our noses at common sense. We need to rethink our toning step and get back to the root of its name: tone.
This step should tone the skin and prepare it to receive the rest of your skincare products. If you really want this step to be a treatment step for acne, why not give a milder, alcohol-free version a whirl? COSRX AHA/BHA Clarifying Treatment Toner is a great option to test that out, and it treats without drying. If your skin is dry and you really need the hydration, you really can’t beat SanDaWha Liposome Skin Softener, which is like herbal tea for your face.
Not since hippies in the 1960s have people wanted to so badly be on acid. The effect of AHAs and BHAs on the skin are pretty obvious and amazing. They work by breaking apart the uppermost dead layer of skin and encouraging new growth underneath. The result is healthy, new skin that comes about in a uniform way. They’re also great acne treatments, penetrating and dissolving the gunk inside of pores. So it’s no wonder people are eager to jump on that acid train.
Have you ever actually seen someone jump on a moving train though? If you’re not fit, you’re not going to be able to run alongside and hop on safely. If you do manage to hop on and you’re not steady as a rock, you run the risk of slipping underneath and getting absolutely wrecked by that train. The same goes for your skin and acids. You need to essentially do some strength training for your skin before starting any acids (or any topical acne treatments IMO). This is a marathon, and right now you need to suck up to your moisture barrier and make sure it’s strong like a top athlete.
One way to expedite the process is giving the 7-skin method a try. This is going to push your skin’s hydration to the max. You also have the option of sheet mask binging. A sheet mask a day keeps the dryness away! Adding an additional oil like squalane and any skincare product with hyaluronic acid will also go a long way to getting your skin in top shape.
Got any favorite tips for use this not that? I’d love to hear them! (Also send me all of your best Drake gifs.)