samples
(Available in USA only)
NOW READING Why Polyglutamic Acid Is NOT the “New” Hyaluronic Acid (So What Is It?)
February 20, 2020

Why Polyglutamic Acid Is NOT the “New” Hyaluronic Acid (So What Is It?)

Everyone’s talking about polyglutamic acid, and while this skincare ingredient holds a lot of promise, it’s not going to replace hyaluronic acid any time soon. Here’s why.


 

Every time a new skincare ingredient hits the market, it brings me back to watching Survivor or American Idol back in middle school where one person needs to win and everyone gets sent home with nothing. There’s this eternal struggle to find the “best” ingredients, and it’s honestly getting overwhelming at this point. I have some feelings that I need to get off my chest about this false sense of scarcity and FOMO that’s being used to push excessive consumerism, but that’s for another day. I specifically wanted to talk about polyglutamic acid, all the buzz it’s been getting lately, and why I’m not going to swap hyaluronic acid out of my routine for polyglutamic acid, or PGA.

 

PGA has popped up in some products that I’ve become familiar with recently (the Steambase Roseherb Build line, Mediheal NMF cleansing foam and sheet mask, and the Keep Cool Soothe Bamboo Toner, to name a few), and with the Inkey List launching a dedicated PGA serum, I don’t see this new kid on the block going anywhere soon.

 

 

polyglutamic acid
Steambase Roseherb serum

 

 

So what the heck is polyglutamic acid?

 

Polyglutamic acid definitely won’t win any awards for sounding particularly glamorous, but it falls into the humectant category. It doesn’t function to exfoliate your skin the way glycolic or lacti acid does, which I’ve seen some articles online falsely claim. It hydrates your skin by binding water to your skin. It’s produced via fermentation in labs and also occurs in natto, which is a traditional Japanese food comprised of fermented soy beans, so if fermented ingredients are something you love, rejoice. However, if you need to avoid them due to any skin conditions you may have, definitely ask your derm before using it.

 

 

What does PGA do?

 

PGA is chemically considered a protein, and much like hyaluronic acid, it also is naturally occurring within your skin, so it falls right in line with the philosophy of “help your skin do what it does” that I’ve really been sticking to lately. What makes it different is that, according to studies, PGA can hold more water than hyaluronic acid can. You always hear that hyaluronic acid can hold 1,000 times its weight in water, and apparently PGA can hold five times that. Obviously that won’t translate exactly on to your skin, but the point is, it can pack a punch when it comes to hydration.

 

 

 

PGA can apparently help your skin not break down hyaluronic acid as quickly, regardless of whether it’s naturally occurring or topically applied, meaning it can help your hydration last longer. Longer lasting hydration means we can better avoid the appearance and, more importantly, in my opinion, the feeling of dehydrated skin. There’s literally nothing worse for me than that tight, dry feeling that happens when my skin is losing water; I swear I can hear my skin screaming at me.

 

There’s also some research that PGA can help aid in preventing and treating hyperpigmentation, but I couldn’t find anything substantial to back that up other than quotes from random dermatologists in various articles, so take that as you will. What it all boils down to is that there’s a lot of promise here for what PGA could do for our skin.

 

 

Polyglutamic acid vs. hyaluronic acid

 

However, PGA is a chunkier molecule than hyaluronic acid, so it doesn’t have the potential to sink as deeply into the skin as hyaluronic acid can. With “multiple weights of hyaluronic acid” being an extremely trendy marketing thing right now, the inability to penetrate into deeper layers of skin might seem like a negative, but the fact that PGA is a bigger molecule could be beneficial.

 

 

 

 

Sitting in the upper portion of your skin means that PGA will help give that classic “glass skin” type of look. The surface hydration is what aids in making your skin look dewy and plump, which can minimize the appearance (and I mean just the appearance, y’all) of fine lines and pores. I really appreciate this type of effect because I’ve found that keeping my skin full of hydration actually does make my pores look less apparent, which is a battle I will be fighting for the rest of my life.

 

These different qualities actually makes PGA quite a great companion to hyaluronic acid, which is why I was irritated that my initial research into this ingredient turned up so many articles talking about how PGA is going to give hyaluronic acid a “run for its money” or that hyaluronic acid can “move over,” implying that PGA is superior because it has the potential to hold more water. Even the articles making these statements acknowledge that PGA is not a direct replacement for hyaluronic acid, but actually discuss how the two could potentially work very well together, which I am in full agreement with, so the fact that they’re making these “PGA > HA” statements in both their content and even in their titles really is incredibly annoying.

 

I’m actually quite intrigued by the early research on PGA, and I expect it to creep its way into more hydrating toners and serums during the upcoming year despite being not so thrilled with how some corners of the internet are choosing to discuss it. My message to you is this: PGA could be great, so give it a try if you get the chance, consult a derm if you have skin conditions that can make fermented ingredients difficult to tolerate, and make sure you read the whole article, not just the headline, because sometimes they literally disagree with each other. I promise that won’t happen here.

 

Have you tried polyglutamic acid yet? Are you interested in checking it out?

 

 

 

Born in Korea and raised in Washington, Leo is another 20-something member of the K-Beauty Squad that is as committed to his love of skincare as he is to wine and cheese covered snack foods. After working as an educator and trainer in the beauty industry, he joined the team at Beautytap to continue sharing his knowledge and passion for skincare and all things chok-chok. During his free time, he’s been spotted in the wild bingeing Netflix shows, blasting K-pop while playing video games, or (much more rarely) leaving his hovel to venture forth in search of cocktails and Korean BBQ.

Beautytap

COMMENTS 8

leannatbeautytap

Thanks for breaking that down so comprehensively! I agree, HA and PGA are said to work wonderfully when in synergy. A few dermatologists I've spoken with about this ingredient mentioned how HA hydrates the lower layers of skin, while PGA plumps the top layer and forms a barrier that locks all the moisture in. They complete each other, not compete :)

nicoleevans

Very interesting article. I'd absolutely try PGA based on the fact that it could help with hyperpigmentation, A.K.A. The bane of my existence :D

kaylarenae

Nice article Leo! I'm open to trying the Polyglutamic Acid. I think I would use it for productional purposes for special events or photoshoots as way to prep skin for a dewy, "glass skin" look. With the molecules being a tad bit larger, it could be a new ingredient invited to my skincare shelf, but I'd have to wait for the results to compare with Hyaluronic Acid.

amygalibut

I was thinking the same thing! How great would this ingredient be for skin prep for a shoot! Looking forward to trying this out.

preslieperez

I am currently using hyaluronic acid in a cream form so adding PGA in a serum form might be a good addition to my routine (:

complicaits

Very informative article, Leo! Based on what you said about the larger molecules, I wonder if there isn't some promise for a skincare/makeup hybrid product with PGA - maybe a tinted moisturizer or something? I'm no scientist, but given the enduring popularity of the glass skin look, if PGA can deliver I bet it would be popular!

janelleparklee

I've been cusious about PGA and I learned a lot from this article. I'm definately intrigued to try it.   I like fermented beauty products.

james

Thank you for this explanation and article. Every time a new ingredient trends, it's funny how people throw out the old baby with the bath water. Hyaluronic acid is one of my favorite ingredients for hydration and works so well...just make sure you are hydrated when using lots of it.