How To Layer Skincare Products for Optimum Results

Still not 100% sure which goes on first between essence and facial oil? We’ve got you covered.

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Whether your skincare routine consists of three steps or twenty (!), the order in which you apply your products is important. And although it may seem painstakingly obvious when to apply certain products in your routine (it’s doubtful you ever made the mistake of applying your cleanser last, for example), others can be a little trickier (looking at you, face oil!).

With the goal of demystifying the subtle Art of Layering Skincare Products, we asked Dr. James Beckman, plastic surgeon, biochemist and founder of Theraderm Skin Care, for his advice.

Why Is Application Order Important?

If you’re wondering why it matters whether you apply your serum before or after your moisturizer or sunscreen, know that the order in which you layer products can help maximize their performance—whether that’s hydrating your skin, nourishing it, providing it with an active ingredient, or sealing everything in.

“Some products need free and easy access to the skin surface to be well absorbed,” says Dr. Beckman. Since they’re absorbed a lot more easily into freshly cleansed skin, you want to apply these first. As for oil-based products, they tend to “block the penetration of other products that follow them,” which is why they should be applied last.

“Sunscreens are mostly oil-based and in any event, they work best when they are the outermost products on the skin,” says Dr. Beckman.

What Is the General Rule of Thumb When It Comes to Layering?

You want to apply any water-based products first, as “they are designed to be absorbed into the deeper skin levels,” says Dr. Beckman. These products are the ones that usually contain active ingredients, the carriers of said ingredients being designed to “interact favorably with molecules inside the skin layers to get maximum penetration, and thus, maximum skin benefit,” he says.

If you have more than one water-based product in your routine (if you use a hydrating toner, an essence, and serum, for example), the general rule is to apply the thinnest formula to the thickest. This will usually result in a typical toner-essence-serum-moisturizer sequence, but as skincare evolves and the lines between product types sometimes become blurred, it may not always be the case.

What Is the Correct Order of Application for Skincare Products?

Your skincare routine could look something like this (depending on which products you opt to use and the time of day):

Cleanser

If you’re double cleansing, use your oil-based cleanser first, and then follow up with your water-based cleanser. “Cleansing prepares the ‘artist’s palette’ for any successive products to work their best,” says Dr. Beckman.

We like: Keys Soulcare Nourishing Cleansing Balm

Exfoliant

Exfoliating products work optimally when you’ve cleansed your skin first. “Cleansing removes oily barriers and, at the same time, opens up channels to the undersides of skin cells so that the exfoliant can get to the attachment fibers,” which then get released to allow the shedding—i.e. the actual exfoliation—to occur.

We like: Versed Day Maker Microcrystal Exfoliator

Mask and/or Spot Treatment

Any rinse-off mask or acne spot treatment should be used next. “Since these products may need to be removed, they would be used before any subsequent products,” says Dr. Beckman. Makes sense!

We like: Summer Fridays Jet Lag Mask

Toner / Essence / Serum

Toners, essences, and serums come next, again, working your way from the most fluid product to the thickest.

We like: Orpheus Resurrection Flora Balancing Rose Toner

Eye Cream

Now it’s time to apply your eye cream. Because eye cream also tends to have active ingredients in it, experts recommend appling it before your basic facial moisturizer.

We like: Caudalie Premier Cru Dark Circle Correcting Eye Cream

Moisturizer

Next comes your moisturizer, which usually has a slightly thicker texture than your previous skincare steps. However, “moisturizers are designed to absorb and penetrate down into the deeper layers of the skin, which is why they need to be applied prior to facial oils or makeup products,” says Dr. Beckman.

We like: Tatcha The Dewy Skin Cream

Face Oil

Should you choose to apply a facial oil, now is the time to do it. It can work wonders, notably on dry skin, especially in winter. It’s also an ideal product to use with facial massage tools of all kinds to ensure they slip over the skin.

We like: W3ll People Plant Elixir Replenishing Botanical Facial Oil

Sunscreen

Sunscreen comes last, so that as little as possible comes between the SPF and those harsh UV rays. “Sunscreen reapplication may also be needed following perspiration or lengthy exposure to the sun,” says Dr. Beckman. In fact, get in the habit of always reapplying sunscreen every 2 hours.

We like: Lancôme UV Expert Aquagel Defense Sunscreen

Should You Wait In Between Skincare Steps?

According to Dr. Beckman, the appropriate waiting time depends on several factors, such as how fast each product is absorbed. “Warm temperatures facilitate substance absorption,” he says. Thickness and how easily a formula spreads can also affect how fast it is absorbed. “One product should be fully absorbed before adding another to prevent clumping on the surface of the skin,” he says. Generally, the oilier the consistency of a product, the longer you should wait (around 5 minutes) before moving on to the next one.

Are there any steps you tend to apply in a different order? How many steps does your skincare routine typically consist of? Let us know in the comments!