How to Safely Use Retinols During the Summer – According to Top Dermatologists

Of all the anti-aging products on the market, retinoids tend to get the most airplay. From over-the-counter preparations to prescription versions, there are a lot of options and things to consider before taking the plunge.

We sat down with board certified dermatologists Dr. Macrene Alexiades, MD PhD, Associate Clinical Professor at Yale University School of Medicine and founder of Macrene Actives and Dr. Pedram Ghasri of Castle Dermatology to get the scoop on retinol, Retin-A, and tazarotene and how to safely use them during the summer, and all throughout the year.

A Brief Overview of Retinoids

You’ve probably heard of Retin-A, which is the trade name for prescription tretinoin. This all-trans-retinoic acid is a staple in many rejuvenating regimens, including mine. Among its many talents, this vitamin A derivative does all of the following:

• Increases skin cell turnover
• Increases collagen production
• Reduces acne
• Keeps pores clear
• Minimizes wrinkles and fine lines
• Evens out skin tone

Dr. Alexiades describes retinol as “the weaker over-the-counter version.” Skin needs to convert retinol into retinoic acid in order for it to work its magic and this conversion process weakens its effectiveness, but it also makes it easier to tolerate without side effects such as redness. So, if you think strength alone is the defining characteristic of a quality product, think again. A lot of factors figure in when deciding to incorporate a retinoid into your routine, but there’s no denying their efficacy.

“Retinols work on receptors in the skin to help regular skin cell proliferation and promote collagen,” adds Dr. Ghasri. “For this reason, they are beneficial for fine lines, wrinkles, and exert an overall anti-aging effect.”

Age Isn’t Always the Deciding Factor

Life would be so much simpler if there was a chart outlining skincare milestones, but, alas, every person’s skin ages at a unique pace. “People often ask what age good to implement retinol into their routine. For those with oily or sebaceous skin, who also want to fight the signs of aging, it is a good idea to start in your 20s or 30s. However, for those with sensitive skin, it is to be avoided,” says Dr. Alexiades.

Things to Consider BEFORE Adding Retinol to Your Routine

Before jumping in with both feet, Dr. Alexiades recommends you take stock of where you live as well as the type of lifestyle you’re living. “If you live in a sunny location, note that retinoids make you very sun sensitive. There is a debate, in fact, that they can potentially be photo-carcinogenic. [Although it hasn’t been proven yet,] “this has resulted in our cautioning patients who use retinoids while getting a lot of sun.”

Even if you live in a cloud-dense environment, “You must apply [retinol products] at night due to the photosensitivity aspect.” You’ll also need to “balance it out by applying an adequate emollient, so that your skin barrier is not compromised.”

“It’s best to start off with a pea sized amount about twice per week then gradually increase to nightly as tolerated over the next several weeks,” adds Dr. Ghasri.

Adding hydrating essences and serums can minimize irritation while keeping your skin plump and happy. Regular and consistent use of SPF is also essential, even for a quick stroll with the doggies. “Retinoids at night and sunscreen in the morning are the cornerstones of healthy skin,” adds Dr. Ghasri.

Top Rated Retinols

Ready to safely incorporate a retinol into your routine? The following retinols have received glowing reviews by Beautytap’s community of professional beauty experts.

YSE Beauty Last Call Retinol Serum – 4.9 Stars

You can thank Molly Sims for this wondrous concoction that beauty experts are raving about. Formulated with retinol, niacinamide and omega fatty acids, expect smooth glowing skin without an ounce of irritation.

COSMEDIX Serum 24 Rapid Renewal Complex – 4.7 Stars

If you’re looking for plump, dewy skin with a reduction in brown spots, you’ll be smitten with this creamy serum.

COSRX The Retinol 0.5 Oil – 4.5 Stars

This highly concentrated oil from a K-Beauty icon sinks right in leading to an improvement in texture and hydration. Expect a brighter, more even complexion.

MDPen Radiant Retinol 1% Balancing Complex – 4.7 Stars

Treat your skin to this hydrating retinol thanks to the addition of rich ceramides and probiotics, from the brand beloved by estheticians.

PÜR Beauty Ceretin Boost Age Defying Retinol Serum – 4.9 Stars

Fueled with Ceretin, their proprietary blend of retinol, lactic acid, shea butter, meadowfoam seed oil, vitamin E, and a ceramide, this formula firms and hydrates. And thanks to the clever formulation, microspheres help keep ingredients in their purest form until application.