The Doctor Is In: The Man Behind Dr.Gloderm on Why Dosage Is Key in Skincare
You may not have heard of Dr. Chul Hong Daniel Park, but you’ve probably heard of some of the K-beauty brands that he’s led to global success: Leaders Cosmetics, It’s Skin, Dr.G. Now Dr. Park has turned his attention to a new K-beauty brand that’s set to shake up the industry with some serious science, cutting-edge technology — oh, and some really pretty packaging, too.
Once you get past the mesmerizing crystal jars and start doing a deep dive into the substance behind new Korean beauty brand Dr.Gloderm, you realize that “deep dive” is no joke. We’re talking marine life studied by NASA, bio capsulation technology, next-gen liposomes that mimic skin’s lipid composition — and that’s only scratching the sparkling surface.
But for all its hardcore science and eye-glazing technical jargon, Dr.Gloderm is only as good as its useability — that desire to reach for that jar or sheet mask again and again, as the user not only gains a pleasurable experience from applying the product on her face but sees real results in her skin. And Dr.Gloderm excels there, too.
Sure, the TABRX Creams are encased in gorgeous faceted jars that belie its relatively moderate $50 price. But they also deliver collagen-producing peptides and antioxidant-rich marine stem cells via cream “pearls” that release its anti-aging ingredients more effectively thanks to its high-tech freeze drying method. The TABRX two-step masks (a K-Beauty Squad fave) offer a surprisingly luxurious experience with its super-absorbent sheet material and Hucell oil capsule, all for less than half of most masks at Sephora. And can we talk about those Oil Capsule Cleansers? (Oh yeah, we did here. Though raved is more like it.)
Fortunately, we had the opportunity to ask the doctor himself about what it is about Dr.Gloderm that makes it so unique. Dr. Chul Hong Daniel Park — the man behind the success of Leaders Cosmetics, It’s Skin, and Dr.G, to name a few — helps explain the science behind the brand, his inspiration for the cream “pearls,” and what Dr.Gloderm has coming up (something I’m personally super excited about).
You have extensive experience in the Korean beauty industry and have made Leaders a household name in sheet masks. What did you feel was missing in the Korean beauty industry that led you to create Dr.Gloderm?
Dr. Chul Hong Daniel Park: My dream was always to create cosmetics that produce healthy skin, and I decided to create my own brand because I wanted a medical brand that is consistent.
Consistency is something that is missing in the K-beauty industry. Domestic brands often have different managers on each line; managers, they all look for pretty things so it’s inevitable for them to have different packaging and brand inconsistency.
You need to be able to identify the brand by looking at the product package. The packaging and products that give real results are a sure way [to] bring long-term success.
Dr.Gloderm is famous for having been founded by 54 dermatologists from Seoul National University. Can you explain how each of the dermatologists helped develop Dr.Gloderm products?
Dr. Park: Since Seoul National University (SNU) is the best university in South Korea and one of the best in the world, it only made sense for me to create cosmetics with the best people.
The SNU dermatologists measured the amount of cream used by people in a consumer survey, and based on the survey, many people use less or more than they should.
Another difference is that the entire line of Dr.Gloderm is made [to comply with] the European standard stimulus test and excludes harmful and irritating components for the skin.
The dermatologists from SNU who participated in the development of Dr.Gloderm were made up of three teams: one team that focused on product development, one team that was in charge of [mask shear tests], and one team that proactively responded by checking the ingredients and tests. We all have the goal of Dr.Gloderm [fundamentally] changing the cosmetic market.
Why did you decide to focus on marine plants in France, specifically halophytes? What are halophytes clinically proven to do for our skin?
Dr. Park: First, let me explain what halophytes are: salt-resistant or salt-tolerant plants that thrive and complete their life cycles in soils or waters containing high salt concentration. Even NASA conducted various studies on halophytes, considering them as an energy source for the future.
When there is not enough air during high tides and too much salt during low tides, halophytes survive in extreme environments. Their leaves and stems are able to control their own moisture and ion levels; endure extreme dryness, heat, UV radiation, salt, and stress; contain lipids, amino acids, polyol, polyphenol, and water soluble sugar; and protect active oxygen and have an anti-inflammatory effect.
Based on all of the above, along with a lot of studies, it was easy for us to decide on halophytes from the west coast of France.
Dr.Gloderm has a patent for the “tablet” pearl formulation in the TABRX creams. How does Celtosome technology, which is the low-temperature chilling of the pearls, make the TABRX better than other creams?
Dr. Park: The Celtosome technology applies a bio capsulation technology that freezes and dries stem cells of living halophytes for better preservation. The purely concentrated powder contains 100 million marine cells per gram, and the cells serve as a direct drug delivery system. When applied on skin, inherent ingredients are delivered directly, as cell membranes are destroyed. The Round Bead Technology creates a formulation of solidified liquid emulsion that maintains its shape even at room temperature. Together, these unique technologies allow for use in exact quantities (which is different from conventional creams) and provides in one dose 100 million marine stem cells.
Why was having the correct dosage so important to you in formulating the TABRX cream? Does applying too much or too little of a skincare product cause problems for your skin?
Dr. Park: First of all, I would like to mention that even with the best cosmetics, if there’s too much quantity, the skin can be damaged.
For me, it all started with sunscreen. SPF numbers are important for sunscreen; when measuring SPF numbers, the amount of g/unit is set. I experimented with SPF 50 and put on half of the amount of sunscreen that I was supposed to apply, and I saw that it works as a sunscreen with SPF 25. This means that the quantity is more important than the SPF number, but people will always use different amounts. It is then that I decided that I should correct the wrong usage and create a cream that provides the right quantity.
Our beads offer ultra rich nutrition for the skin and provides non-greasy, deep protection. The right dose is two capsules (0.5 g per capsule) two times a day. This dosage will nourish the skin with, like I mentioned before, 100 million marine stem cells.
So to answer your question, most people apply the wrong amount of product, which can destroy the balance of the skin and will result in other skincare problems.
The TABRX masks use a material called Bemliese for its sheet. How is Bemlise a better material than microfiber, biocellulose, and cupro?
Dr. Park: We use Bemliese instead of other materials because it has higher liquid absorption and retention, a high level of adhesion, and high purity and transparency.
Bemliese is a continuous filament, binder-free, 100% cotton liner that absorbs a sufficient amount of skincare product and delivers it into the skin. It attaches tightly onto the face, allowing the essence to penetrate deep into the skin.
Do you have recommendations for which skin type or age group should use which TABRX Cream and which TABRX mask?
Dr. Park: We recommend the products to be used by people over 20 years old, both males and females, because the products are conceived for people who want 1:1 customized skincare products prescribed by dermatologists. The products can be used for all skin types. The only condition would be to give to your skin the adjuvant product that it needs.
For example, if your skin needs moisture, you can use TABRX Serum Moisture Action, TABRX Moisture Mask, and TABRX Moisture Cream.
We’re all fans of the TABRX Radiance Oil Capsule Cleanser. It’s such a genius idea to put oil cleanser in capsule form for easy portability. Was there a specific formulary reason why you wanted to put your oil cleanser in capsule form?
Dr. Park: Thank you very much for thinking so highly about our products! We did put a lot of time and energy in creating products to satisfy all of you!
When we created Radiance Oil Capsule, we didn’t think about easy portability. We just followed our main principle: 1-time-use-1-precise-dose. It’s an anti-pollution cleanser lighter than water that brings freshness and deep moisture.
Does Dr.Gloderm continue to work with the 54 founding dermatologists in research for new future products? If so, what other products is Dr.Gloderm planning to launch in the near future?
Dr. Park: We will continue being partners with these brilliant people, of course! Our mission will always be to offer a complete solution to skin problems, our goal is to become the no. 1 global medical cosmetic brand, and we will always live by our motto “Better Prescription, Better Beauty,” so without our dermatologists we will not be able to achieve our mission and goal.
We are developing an eye care line and a line for the five types of acne — and I promise you will not be disappointed!
Seungri is one of your investors at Dr.Gloderm. Did you feel it was important to get a well-known Korean celebrity onboard with your brand to help Dr.Gloderm stand out in a very crowded beauty marketplace?
Dr. Park: I think Seungri mentioned this before, but we’ve known each other for five years already. He knew about my plan of creating Dr.Gloderm so when I started, we actually started together.
I think I can say it confidently that we are three times stronger because of the brilliant minds of our 54 dermatologists, Seungri’s business mindset, and my 20 years of experience.
I am also thankful for his hard work as a partner and also as an artist, which helps in bringing more popularity to our brand.
I would like to say that we will always give our best, we will always put our customers first the same way Seungri places his fans first, and lastly, stay by our side!
We will soon launch new products, and we have a big surprise for all of you!
Which Dr.Gloderm products would you try first? Have you tried the TABRX mask yet? Let us know in the comments!